Arrivederchi freezing Firenze—Buongiorno sunny Padova!

March 10 2010

Needless to say, visiting the art of Florence was an absolute dream. In my travels to the Uffizi Gallery, the Pitti Palace, the Academia and the Convent of San Marco, I saw some of the biggest highlights of my historical education, and I couldn’t have filled more happiness into those two days.

Although the only drawback to Florence was the weather, I found that my most rewarding experiences happened on the inside of various museums and inside warm Italian cafés, so really, all was well.

On the morning my last day (Wednesday), I scurried to the Academia to see the Statue of David. Although I had obviously studied this piece since about seventh grade, I was truly taken aback at how HUGE the David is. Literally, the statue completely dominates an enormous corridor and the detail, expressiveness and weightiness that Michelangelo successfully executed for this gigantic work is worthy of its awesome presentation. I finally get why this masterpiece is such a “big” deal.

After the Academia (which, in truth, was slightly disappointing for the price), I headed over to the Convent of San Marco, where Fra Angelico’s fresco’s are painted in the old convent’s bedroom walls. With the little time I had left in Florence, I was hesitant to dedicate a chunk of time to find the church in the maze of squares just to see his famous Annunciation. Why couldn’t they just move it to the Uffizi so that art lovers can have all the glorious items in one spot?? Ah, no, silly girl. You wouldn’t have wanted that.

The Convent of San Marco is a small, circa14^th century chapel which used to serve as a convent, and Fra Angelico depicted different important biblical scenes in each private room. There are probably 20 + scenes, each with different poignant moments, and even cooler, each old fresco still illuminates the tiny, simple stone space. Of course, the most rewarding part of the chapel (aside from the lovely, subtle courtyard) is walking up the steps from the ground floor and meeting the Annunciation at the top of the stairs. It’s unavoidable, but it’s also more beautiful than it was when I fell in love with it on a slide three years ago. This main fresco brought an American girl trapsing through the rain and cold with an image from a Boston powerpoint in her heart, and she was rewarded 10 fold. So worth the trip, and a huge, huge check on my “must-see-heart-swell” works of art.

Also, while I was exploring Fra Angelico’s experimental surrealism, the sun FINALLY broke through the solid grey Florentine sky. With this change in weather, I changed my direction, and ran down to the Duomo to explore the inside of the Cathedral. Obviously, it was gorgeous on the inside. I particularly loved the ceiling of the dome, but on this sunny day, just the interior didn’t cut it. I wanted to see it, and Florence, in all of her glory on this unexpectedly bright day.

So, I climbed to the top of the dome, with 465 stairs in between me and the top of the world. I can let the pictures speak for themselves, really. But the experience was exquisite, and the perfect way to say arrivederchi! to Firenze with a big smile, and a symbol of all the warmth I found there.

After that, I boarded a train to Padova to finally make my way to the last leg of the tour, and make it to the Italian home of Miss Christine.

As I travelled through the Italian countryside, there was snow everywhere, and once we passed Bologna, no other color or sight appeared out of the window but pure white. It was the first snow that Padova had ever seen in March, and it was coming with me from Florence.

Although I arrived with a bit of a heavy heart because of the terribly unusual weather in Padova, it didn’t last long. Upon exiting the train, I was immediately thawed by the immensely bright warm welcome from Christine at the station. She was there to meet me with a huge smile, and a powerful hug that had been waiting to be met since January. Despite the snowfall in Padova, there was only sunshine for us and our glasses of delicious wine and warmed us enough for some girltalk, great conversation and contagious laughter.

After a whirlwind travelling from city to city and lugging my suitcases up flights of stairs, I was ready to settle down into the real Italian lifestyle, and for the next three days, I did just that.

Happy Travels,

xx

Statues and Stories..first day in Florence

First Day in Florence:

Ciao!

What an awful start to a brilliant day!

With all of my travelling/ sleep deprivation, I accidentally slept through two alarms, and found myself rolling over around…11:30!! NOT the way I like to start off my trips ANYWHERE when I know there are things to be seen and done, and time was already a-tickin’! I grumbled, jumped up, and saw from my huge window that it was…indeed snowing in Florence, Italy.

After collecting my thoughts and resuming my delayed itinerary, I threw myself into the city centre, only to accidentally go shopping. I couldn’t help it! It’s just where I happened to stumble first! It was NOT on the itinerary, at all!

Really resuming my itinerary (and one luxurious bag later), I hit the San Lorenzo, not really knowing what to expect. In my first stop, I found some gorgeous statues of the Medici’s by the master himself,Michaelangelo. Not a bad way to start the day, to mingle with MA and the Medici’s was a great introduction. But this glorious find was only the beginning of discovering magnificent treasures that I have been waiting years to see.

As you may have guessed, it was still raining/sleeting…but this time, it was mixed with ferocious snow! Because I was running behind schedule, I immediately darted to my most important and anticipated stop, The Uffizi Gallery. On the way, I stopped by the glorious Duomo and tried to take in the Piazza della Signora with the faux statue of David, but my camera lens kept getting wet and snowflakes covered my eyes and my lens. With a slightly heavy heart, I received my “you’ll have to wait” ticket for the Uffizi, and wandered into a café to see exactly what I wanted to hit, because for some reason, I thought I’d also be able to go to the Academia before it closed. Happily, I can say that the Uffizi held so many precious landmarks and heart swells that I enjoyed my time there too much to count minutes til closing.

Just so you know, the Uffizi Gallery has got to be the greatest treasure trove…EVER. There are masterpieces from Italian artists for CENTURIES, including Giotto, Veronese, Fra Angelico, Michaelangelo, Raphael, Botticelli, Carravaggio, Titan… the greatest of the greats! Just to give you a small idea of what I was like during this experience…I can tell you that I had a party in every room I went into, even when I thought I wouldn’t know much in this room or that because it didn’t have a Titan. LITERALLY, my whole freshman year of art history was now in the flesh, and I amextraordinarily fortunate to say that Venus of Urbino and I have finally linked eyes. Other HUGE highlights included Michelangelo’s Baptism of St. John, Botticelli’s La Primivera & Birth of Venus, Fillipino Lippi’s Madonna and Child and so many more. This was probably my biggest “art-gasm” since my first real art experience in the Lourve in October of 2008. This may even have been bigger, more intense, and full of wonderful, irreplaceable and heart-happy feelings.

After THAT, I ran across the Ponte Vecchio to the Pitti Palace before it closed in 45 minutes time. Of course, there were crowds and a steep hill to conquer, but I made it, and found that the surprises just kept coming! Round two included:

- The Four Philosophers by Peter Paul Ruebens

- Raphael’s Madonna Della Segna

- Titan’s Mary Magdelene

After that, it was nearly dark, so I sat in a café and planned out my final day in Florence before I head over to Padova to see Miss CHRISTINE (!!) for my third leg of the Grand Tour toward Venice.

Thank you for a VERY rewarding day, Firenze. Despite the snow, you warmed me to the core.

Happy travels,

(Buen Viaggio!)

xx

Ciao.

A Light in the Piazza...

Ciao!

After being delayed at the airport in Madrid for nearly 3 hours, I finally caught some zzz’s on the plane ride over to Italy. In truth, I fell asleep over a stunning sunny Spanish landscape of vivid greens and reds that came in waves through the rolling white fluffy clouds. I think there were angels bouncing on them. You know, those kind.

When I awoke, there was literally a blue mountain in front of me in a dusky Italia. We were coming in for a landing, and I saw no airport in sight…only mountains. With a bit of a start, I woke up all the way to see that no one else seemed nervous, so I better sit back down. We landed quite delicately, I put my heart back where it belonged in my chest, and continued on to my second leg of the Tour: Florence.

Upon arriving to the Santa Maria Novella train station, I attempted to locate my hostel in the dark and rainy winding streets with a 40 pound suitcase, a full purse and my laptop swinging. With no Italian under my belt, and no travel buddy beside me, I was a drench, tired, lost American girl with a heavy suitcase and no sense of where to go. After a little bit of wandering, I found my place nice and easily.

Arriving at the hostel, I had a bit of hesitation, since it was down a dark street and there were vespas coming at me from every direction. No problem though….that is..until check in.

“Ah, yes. You’ll be in the Annexe. It’s across the piazza there, and up the stairs. Floor 3.”

“Right, and I can take the lift?”

“Ah..no. No lift. Eet is no work anymore!”

Fine.

So, I crossed the piazza, and found a door that didn’t open that looked like a promising entrance to a warm building (since I was soaked, tired, and snow was predicted for the next day). Then, I saw the most horrible staircase…essentially a metal fire escape that went three floors up. No, said I, couldn’t be! So, I dragged my suitcase, laptop and full purse up about 20 metal steps that seemed to have absolutely no support, only to find out that this was wrong, and I had woken up just about everyone in Florence with my suitcase and weak arms.

Eventually, I found the loveliest room a girl could ask for, and my stay in Firenze began with a great start: catching up with Kerri over pizza and vino! After the longest separation in 12 years, Kerri and I had a delicious dinner and it was so wonderful to receive yet another warm welcome in a foreign land.

Happy Travels,

(Buon Viaggio!)

xx

My Grand Tour: Part One

Hola!

Well! After a whirlwind of a week that included two papers, a big French test and a final exam on The Grand Tour of Italy (with 191 slides to “know,”) I was at the airport ready to go by 5 PM on Thursday. Luckily, my Art History exam incorporated many important works, galleries, gorgeous landscapes and landmarks found in Florence and Venice, so in a sense, cramming for my midterm was also planning what to do and see in my trip!

For the first time, I flew Lufthansa, and I do not have enough good things to say about this airline. The people on the plane were very polite, and the staff was gentle, yet very efficient. Usually, I’m a die-hard Virgin Atlantic kind of gal…but after my German experience to my layover in Munich…I’m thinking Sir Richard Branson better step it up. What other airline gives you a fresh looking salad with a lovely little dinner with a delectable cheesecake at the end? SRB, sorry but, I know that Sainsbury sells those gü pods for one pound a set…

In total, my travel time totaled 14 hours to get from Boston to Madrid, and after about two hours of sleep in that time, I was totally ready for a siesta when I landed on Spanish soil.

And there, with loving arms to hug my tired frame, was Miss Elizabeth E. waiting for me as I arrived through the terminal! There’s no better feeling than being met by someone at the airport. Love Actually totally articulates this thought to a T, and I too, think Love Actually is all around… in several different countries (as you will see).

Day One: Friday

After the airport reunion, Liz and I headed into town to get settled and I eagerly anticipated the tapas and sangria that would meet us at dinnertime. Incredibly, Liz got us settled on the Metro with her excellent Spanish (which she would do many times throughout the weekend), and we were off to begin our weekend journey! Sort of a quiet evening spent near the Palacio Real de Madrid. We went to a lovely restaurant that indeed serve tapas and sangria deliciosos, and I met her wonderful friends that are living and learning a true Spanish existence! This was also my first experience with the rain that followed me from Madrid and beyond! However, with a good umbrella and fantastic friends, there was no need to rain on the Spain parade of happy things!

Day Two:

As I was still adjusting to the time difference (and not sleeping for a week), we enjoyed our morning and headed to the magnificent Prado Museum before it was time for the delightful traditional almuerzo with her darling Señora.

The Prado was the big “to-do,” while I was in Spain…mainly because it holds a million treasures that any student of the history of art would die to see. My main points included:

Velazquez’s Las Meninas

De Goya’s Third of March

De Goya’s Charles IV of Spain and His Family

De Goya’s The Nude/Clothed Maja

All of these works absolutely thrilling to see in person…because when you fall in love with a painting on a slide in a dark lecture hall…finding it in person is a little bit indescribable. I had written and studied and adored these paintings starting from my freshman year in college, and to ACTUALLY feel the creepy aura that resonates from Las Meninas was..shall I say..a treat? Also, the Third of March held a feeling of horror and pity that could simply never properly translate to a classroom. I was delighted to find these gems, and more impressed by some unexpected Ruebens, El Greco, and “Tiziano.”

After this, we headed home for a traditional lunch! Not only was I being artistically cultured on this trip, but I can now say that I had a special dining experience that was nothing less than welcoming (and muy scrumptious!). The conversation was translated by Miss Elizabeth herself, and may I say once again, that her Spanish is exceptional!

With a short siesta, we headed out to the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía to see Picasso’s La Guernica. Although I’m a huge fan of Cubism and Picasso’s Blue & Rose Period (and his French stuff), seeing La Guernica really put Picasso’s purpose in perspective. Again, the feeling of disjoined horror came to life, and suddenly, a bunch of little pieces became one poignant statement about war and violence that I hadn’t seen from Picasso before. A sense of true anger came through, but also, the piece is quite moving in person. No longer just a big black and white puzzle, La Guernica spoke volumes once I met her face to face.

That night, we ate light and explored Old Madrid, which held really windy and ancient streets that held swarms of entertainment!

On Sunday, we took advantage of the spot of sunshine and headed back to explore the Palacio Real and the Cathedral beside it. The Palacio actually reminded me a little of Holyrood House in it’s foregrounds, and also a little of the seaside treasure that is The Royal Pavillion in Brighton, England. I think that the color of the Palace gave it a feeling of summery sea air, even though there was no ocean anywhere near Madrid (…hehe).

Liz and I spent the day strolling around the main plazas in central Madrid, including the Puerta del Sol & the Plaza Mayor, after spending the afternoon in the Parque del Buen Retiro. With gorgeous flowers and monuments to guide our way, we hardly noticed the rain, and we ended our day with some delectable and totally Spanish treat of chocolate churos! It was like… fried dough sticks dipped in a liquefied chocolate dream. Mmmm!

Monday was my leaving day, and with my luck, the sun came out on that day! But, with all of the happiness that this visit brought, I found sunshine in other places that is warmer than any March day could ever provide!

Thank you, Elizabeth, for un fin de semana fantástico! You made my trip a delight. You are already a fabulously seasoned Spanish speaker, and I can’t wait to see what other wonderful things you do with the rest of your semester! Happy travels to the land of the Sound of Music, and I can’t wait to see you spinning when those hills come alive! Go find a Mr. Von Trapp, and see you Stateside, mi amiga J

I headed to the airport to catch a flight to Florence, my next stop on my own Grand Tour. I made the funny mistake of telling my darling señor of a cab driver that “Yo hablo Español…un poco!” And for the next 30 minutes, he talked at me about different meats, great food, how to make great shellfish, and travelling to XY&Z. Of course, when I said “un poco,” I meant it. But, with a few “Ahh…si! Ah, yo se, yo se!” I seemed to translate as a happy tourist just fine. At least I didn’t say, “Esta trés bien!”…more than once. ;)

On to Firenze, Italia !!!!!

Happy Travels,

(Feliz viaje)

(Buon Viaggio)