Tuesday 9 March 2010

My Grand Tour: Part One


Hola!

Well! After a whirlwind of a week that included two papers, a big French test and a final exam on The Grand Tour of Italy (with 191 slides to “know,”) I was at the airport ready to go by 5 PM on Thursday. Luckily, my Art History exam incorporated many important works, galleries, gorgeous landscapes and landmarks found in Florence and Venice, so in a sense, cramming for my midterm was also planning what to do and see in my trip!

For the first time, I flew Lufthansa, and I do not have enough good things to say about this airline. The people on the plane were very polite, and the staff was gentle, yet very efficient. Usually, I’m a die-hard Virgin Atlantic kind of gal…but after my German experience to my layover in Munich…I’m thinking Sir Richard Branson better step it up. What other airline gives you a fresh looking salad with a lovely little dinner with a delectable cheesecake at the end? SRB, sorry but, I know that Sainsbury sells those gü pods for one pound a set…

In total, my travel time totaled 14 hours to get from Boston to Madrid, and after about two hours of sleep in that time, I was totally ready for a siesta when I landed on Spanish soil.

And there, with loving arms to hug my tired frame, was Miss Elizabeth E. waiting for me as I arrived through the terminal! There’s no better feeling than being met by someone at the airport. Love Actually totally articulates this thought to a T, and I too, think Love Actually is all around… in several different countries (as you will see).

Day One: Friday

After the airport reunion, Liz and I headed into town to get settled and I eagerly anticipated the tapas and sangria that would meet us at dinnertime. Incredibly, Liz got us settled on the Metro with her excellent Spanish (which she would do many times throughout the weekend), and we were off to begin our weekend journey! Sort of a quiet evening spent near the Palacio Real de Madrid. We went to a lovely restaurant that indeed serve tapas and sangria deliciosos, and I met her wonderful friends that are living and learning a true Spanish existence! This was also my first experience with the rain that followed me from Madrid and beyond! However, with a good umbrella and fantastic friends, there was no need to rain on the Spain parade of happy things!

Day Two:

As I was still adjusting to the time difference (and not sleeping for a week), we enjoyed our morning and headed to the magnificent Prado Museum before it was time for the delightful traditional almuerzo with her darling Señora.

The Prado was the big “to-do,” while I was in Spain…mainly because it holds a million treasures that any student of the history of art would die to see. My main points included:

Velazquez’s Las Meninas

De Goya’s Third of March

De Goya’s Charles IV of Spain and His Family

De Goya’s The Nude/Clothed Maja

All of these works absolutely thrilling to see in person…because when you fall in love with a painting on a slide in a dark lecture hall…finding it in person is a little bit indescribable. I had written and studied and adored these paintings starting from my freshman year in college, and to ACTUALLY feel the creepy aura that resonates from Las Meninas was..shall I say..a treat? Also, the Third of March held a feeling of horror and pity that could simply never properly translate to a classroom. I was delighted to find these gems, and more impressed by some unexpected Ruebens, El Greco, and “Tiziano.”

After this, we headed home for a traditional lunch! Not only was I being artistically cultured on this trip, but I can now say that I had a special dining experience that was nothing less than welcoming (and muy scrumptious!). The conversation was translated by Miss Elizabeth herself, and may I say once again, that her Spanish is exceptional!

With a short siesta, we headed out to the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía to see Picasso’s La Guernica. Although I’m a huge fan of Cubism and Picasso’s Blue & Rose Period (and his French stuff), seeing La Guernica really put Picasso’s purpose in perspective. Again, the feeling of disjoined horror came to life, and suddenly, a bunch of little pieces became one poignant statement about war and violence that I hadn’t seen from Picasso before. A sense of true anger came through, but also, the piece is quite moving in person. No longer just a big black and white puzzle, La Guernica spoke volumes once I met her face to face.

That night, we ate light and explored Old Madrid, which held really windy and ancient streets that held swarms of entertainment!

On Sunday, we took advantage of the spot of sunshine and headed back to explore the Palacio Real and the Cathedral beside it. The Palacio actually reminded me a little of Holyrood House in it’s foregrounds, and also a little of the seaside treasure that is The Royal Pavillion in Brighton, England. I think that the color of the Palace gave it a feeling of summery sea air, even though there was no ocean anywhere near Madrid (…hehe).

Liz and I spent the day strolling around the main plazas in central Madrid, including the Puerta del Sol & the Plaza Mayor, after spending the afternoon in the Parque del Buen Retiro. With gorgeous flowers and monuments to guide our way, we hardly noticed the rain, and we ended our day with some delectable and totally Spanish treat of chocolate churos! It was like… fried dough sticks dipped in a liquefied chocolate dream. Mmmm!

Monday was my leaving day, and with my luck, the sun came out on that day! But, with all of the happiness that this visit brought, I found sunshine in other places that is warmer than any March day could ever provide!

Thank you, Elizabeth, for un fin de semana fantástico! You made my trip a delight. You are already a fabulously seasoned Spanish speaker, and I can’t wait to see what other wonderful things you do with the rest of your semester! Happy travels to the land of the Sound of Music, and I can’t wait to see you spinning when those hills come alive! Go find a Mr. Von Trapp, and see you Stateside, mi amiga J

I headed to the airport to catch a flight to Florence, my next stop on my own Grand Tour. I made the funny mistake of telling my darling señor of a cab driver that “Yo hablo Español…un poco!” And for the next 30 minutes, he talked at me about different meats, great food, how to make great shellfish, and travelling to XY&Z. Of course, when I said “un poco,” I meant it. But, with a few “Ahh…si! Ah, yo se, yo se!” I seemed to translate as a happy tourist just fine. At least I didn’t say, “Esta trés bien!”…more than once. ;)

On to Firenze, Italia !!!!!

Happy Travels,

(Feliz viaje)

(Buon Viaggio)


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